In the southern part of Sakurai City, Nara Prefecture, to the east of Asuka, lies the renowned autumn foliage spot, Tanzan Shrine. It enshrines Kamatari, a key figure in the Taika Reforms. The origins trace back to Kamatari’s eldest son, Joue, who moved Kamatari’s remains from Mount Awi in Settsu Province (modern-day Osaka) to this location. Joue then built a wooden thirteen-story pagoda (an Important Cultural Property). And then his younger brother, Fujiwara Fuhito, erected a shrine and placed an image of their father there. The name ‘Tanzan Shrine’ is derived from the ‘Tanzan’ where Kamatari and Crown Prince Naka Ōe allegedly conspired to assassinate Soga Iruka. The main hall, adorned with lacquer and vibrant colors, follows the Kasuga architectural style and houses the Kamatari statue, said to have served as a model for Nikkō Tōshō-gū. The wooden thirteen-story pagoda, considered Kamatari’s tomb tower, was reconstructed in the Muromachi period, standing at a height of 17 meters—now the only existing structure of its kind. Tanzan Shrine is not only famous for its autumn foliage but also offers beauty throughout the seasons, with cherry blossoms adorning the grounds in spring, vibrant greenery in summer, and a stunning winter snowscape.

奈良県桜井市の南部、飛鳥の東に、紅葉の名所として知られる談山神社があります。大化の改新の立役者、藤原鎌足が祀られています。今の大阪である摂津国の安威山から鎌足の遺骨をこの地に移し、鎌足の長男定慧が木造十三重塔(重要文化財)を建てたことに始まります。そこに弟の藤原不比等が神殿を建立し、父の像を安置したとされます。談山神社の社名は、藤原鎌足が中大兄皇子と計って蘇我入鹿を暗殺するために談合をした「談い山」からとったものとされます。漆塗極彩色、春日造の？本殿には鎌足像が祀られており、日光東照宮の手本になったといわれています。また鎌足の墓塔といわれている木造十三重の塔は、室町時代に再建されたもので高さ17m、古塔の中では現存唯一の遺構です。談山神社は紅葉の名所としても有名ですが、境内を桜が彩る春、新緑の季節、雪化粧が見事な冬と季節を問わず美しさを堪能することができます。

Along National Route 168, connecting Gojo City in Nara Prefecture and Shingu City in Wakayama Prefecture, lies the once-considered remote and hidden gem of Japan, the Totsukawa Onsen kyo. Totsukawa Onsen kyo encompasses Yusenchi Onsen, the oldest hot spring in Totsukawa Village, the bustling Totsukawa Onsen itself, and the secluded Kamiyu Onsen with only one inn. The National Route 168 was once infamous for its treacherous conditions, often referred to as a rugged road. Landslides and rockfalls were frequent, leading to extended road closures lasting several tens of days each time. About 50 years ago, when I visited, there were several places where traffic waited for up to an hour due to narrow passages. Nevertheless, it remained a popular hot spring destination, attracting visitors from all over the country in search of hidden gems.
Situated in the heart of the Kii Peninsula, this area still retains the remnants of its secluded past. Various suspension bridges, including the 297-meter-long and 54-meter-high “Tani-se no Tsurihashi,” dot the landscape. Waterfalls are scattered throughout, and the “Sasa no Taki” waterfall in the photograph has been selected as one of the “100 Famous Waterfalls in Japan.” The majestic waterfall, with a drop of approximately 32 meters, echoes through the serene natural surroundings. The beauty of the cascading water, the rising mist, and the mysterious threads of white flowing over the rocky surface create a captivating and tranquil atmosphere that resonates deeply with the soul.

奈良県五條市と和歌山県新宮市を結ぶ国道168号線の途中に、かつて日本の秘境と言われた十津川温泉郷があります。十津川温泉郷とは、十津川村で最も古い温泉のある湯泉地温泉、最も賑わいのある十津川温泉、たった一軒の宿しかない上湯温泉の総称です。国道１６８号線は、かつては酷道と呼ばれる程の悪路でした。土砂崩れや山崩れが絶えず起こり、その度に何十日も通行禁止になる事はしばしば。50年前程に行った時は、離合待ちで最大1時間という様な場所が何ヶ所かありました。それでも全国から秘湯を求めてやって来る人が絶えない人気の温泉地でもありました。紀伊半島のど真ん中にあるこの地は、いまだに秘境の名残をとどめ、長さ297メートル高さ54メートの「谷瀬の吊り橋」を初め、大小様々な吊り橋があったりします。滝などは至る所にあり、写真の「笹の滝」は、「日本の滝100選」にも選ばれていて、落差約３２メートルにもなる雄大な滝は静寂な自然の中に轟音を轟かせ、水しぶきをあげて流れおちる美しさはもちろんのこと、岩肌を流れる白糸の神秘さに心まで澄み渡る思いがします。

Exiting Kyoto Shijo Station on the Keihan Electric Railway and proceeding straight east along Shijo Street, you will reach Yasaka Shrine. Heading south from there, you arrive at Gion, and within the expansive grounds in the eastern area of Gion stands Kodai-ji Temple. This temple was built by Nene, the wife of Toyotomi Hideyoshi, to mourn his soul. Nene used to visit Kodai-ji Temple daily from the nearby Entoku-in. She and Hideyoshi fell in love during the time when he was still known as Kinoshita Tokichiro, and they married. Nene, a daughter of a noble samurai family, married Tokichiro, who came from a peasant background. Nene’s mother strongly opposed the marriage and did not approve of it until her death.
Tokichiro served Oda Nobunaga and gradually rose to prominence. Throughout this time, Nene continuously supported Tokichiro, and it is said that it was thanks to Nene’s help that Nobunaga came to patronize him.The couple did not have children, and when Hideyoshi’s son, Hideyori, was born to his concubine Yodo-dono, Nene was overjoyed. She cherished Hidetada more than anyone else, maintaining a close relationship with Yodo-dono. After Hideyoshi’s death and the suicides of Hidetada and Yodo-dono during the Siege of Osaka, Nene maintained a surprisingly amicable relationship even with the enemy general Tokugawa Ieyasu. She played a central role in the establishment of Kodai-ji Temple to enshrine Hideyoshi, with Ieyasu taking the lead in the post-war efforts.
Regardless of family or foes, Nene was a woman respected by many warriors, as evidenced by historical records. Furthermore, Nene had an unmatched love for sake, likely reflecting on Hideyoshi while enjoying the cherry blossoms and autumn leaves at Kodai-ji Temple.

京阪電鉄京都四条駅を降りて四条通りを真っ直ぐ東に進むと、八阪神社に突き当たります。そこを南に下ったところが祇園で、祇園の東の一角の広大な敷地に高台寺があります。豊臣秀吉の妻、北政所ねねが秀吉の菩提を弔うために建てた寺です。ねねはすぐ近くにある圓徳院から毎日、この高台寺にお参りしたそうです。秀吉がまだ木下藤吉郎を名乗っていた時代に相思相愛の中になり結婚しました。ねねは名家の武士の娘で藤吉郎は農民の出です。ねねの母親は結婚に大反対で死ぬまで結婚を認めませんでした。藤吉郎は織田信長に仕え、次第に頭角を表していきます。この間、藤吉郎をずっと支え、信長に引き立てられるようになったのもねねの力添えだと言われています。二人の間には子供がなく、秀吉のお妾さんの淀殿との間に秀頼ができた時も大変喜び、誰よりも秀頼を可愛がり、淀殿とも親密な関係を保ちます。秀吉が亡くなり、秀頼も淀殿も大坂夏の陣で自刃しますが、戰の後も、敵方の大将徳川家康とも仲を怪しまれるほどの良好な関係で、秀吉を祀る高台寺創建の際には家康が中心になって事にあたります。身内、敵に関わらず、ねねは多くの武将から尊敬されるほどの女性であったことが、歴史資料からも窺えます。またねねは無類のお酒好きで、高台寺の桜や紅葉を見ながら、秀吉を偲んだことでしょう。

醍醐寺 (Daigo-ji Temple), famous for its “Daigo no Hanami” cherry blossom viewing, is now adorned with vibrant autumn foliage, attracting numerous tourists.
Established in 874 by the disciple of the renowned Kobo Daishi Kukai, Monk Shobo, it stands as the head temple of the Shingon sect Daigo school. Embracing the entirety of Mt. Daigo within its precincts, this vast temple spans 2 million square meters, ranking among Kyoto’s foremost grand temples.
With a rich history, it has garnered support from emperors, nobles, and warriors since its inception. Despite facing multiple fires, including those during the tumultuous Onin War, much of its architecture and artifacts, including national treasures and important cultural properties, have been preserved and passed down. Recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, the temple faced a period of decline until its revival by Toyotomi Hideyoshi.
Hideyoshi orchestrated a grand event known as the “Daigo no Hanami,” inviting daimyos from across the country. To enhance the spectacle, he commandeered 700 cherry blossom trees. This event, comparable to the “Kitano Tea Gathering,” became a monumental feast in Hideyoshi’s life. Despite his passing five months after the celebration, the cherry blossoms he left behind continued to flourish at Daigo-ji, symbolizing his legacy.
Amidst the anti-Buddhist movements during the Meiji Restoration, many temples were forced to sell or lose their treasures. In contrast, Daigo-ji Temple, through the efforts of its abbots and monks, successfully retained its treasures, preventing any leakage to the outside. These precious artifacts, safeguarded throughout its extensive history, include numerous national treasures and important cultural properties, now carefully housed in the Reihokan (Treasure Hall).

「醍醐の花見」で有名な醍醐寺が紅葉の見頃を迎え、多くの観光客が押し寄せています。
真言宗醍醐派の総本山の醍醐寺は、874年に、弘法大師空海の孫弟子、理源大師聖宝によって開創されました。醍醐山全体を寺域とする総面積200万坪からなる広い境内を持つ、京都でも屈指の大寺院です。多くの国宝・重要文化財を含む、建造物・仏像・絵画・文書を伝承しており、世界遺産にも認定されています。
開創以来、醍醐天皇を初めとする皇室や貴族や武士の支援を得て隆盛を極めていましたが、長い年月の中で、応仁の乱など相継ぐ戦乱で何度もの火災にもあい、五重塔以外の建物は皆焼失してしまう憂き目を見ることになります。
そんな醍醐寺を再興させたのが豊臣秀吉です。全国から700本もの桜を取り寄せ、諸国の大名を招待して「醍醐の花見」を催しました。「北野の茶会」と並ぶ秀吉一世一代の大宴会です。秀吉はこの「醍醐の花見」の５ヶ月に亡くなるのですが、秀吉の残した桜がその後の醍醐寺を盛り立てる事になります。
明治維新の廃仏毀釈が吹き荒れる中、他の多くの寺院が寺宝を売り払うなどして流出させてしまったのに対し、醍醐寺は座主をはじめとした多くの僧の努力もあり、一つの寺宝も外に漏らすことなく、守り抜いたのです。長い歴史の中で伝えられてきたこの貴重な寺宝は、大半が国宝や重要文化財に指定され、現在も霊宝館（宝物館）に大切に所蔵されています。

Jikishi-an Temple is a hidden gem in Arashiyama, a popular tourist destination in Kyoto, Japan. It is located in the back of Arashiyama, a 15-minute walk from Daikaku-ji Temple. The temple is surrounded by tranquility, even though it is surrounded by the hustle and bustle of Arashiyama.
Jikishi-an Temple was founded by Dokushoseien, a monk from Nanzen-ji Temple who studied Zen Buddhism. He built a hut on this site in 1646 and named it Jikishi-an Temple. The name Jikishi-an Temple comes from the Zen phrase “jikishi-ninshin,” which means “to directly point to the mind.”
Jikishi-an Temple once had a large complex of buildings, but it fell into decline after Dokushoseien’s death. In the late Edo period, the temple was revived by Tsunaki Muraoka-no-tsubone, a former lady-in-waiting to the Konoe family who was a supporter of the Meiji Restoration. She devoted herself to the education of local girls, and her legacy continues to this day.
The main hall of Jikishi-an Temple houses a “Omoide-gusa” notebook where visitors can write their thoughts and feelings. The temple grounds also have a “souvenir grass Kannon statue” and a “love-encounter Jizo statue,” which are popular spots for women.

外国人観光客を交え、紅葉を求めてやってくる観光客でごった返す嵐山の奥、大覚寺からさらに徒歩15分、奥嵯峨のどん詰まりにあるのが直指庵。紅葉の隠れたスポットでもあります。年中参拝者も少なく静寂に包まれていて、嵐山の喧騒からは想像もつかない落ち着いた雰囲気のお寺です。
臨済禅を学んだ南禅寺の僧、独照性円がこの地に草案を結び、後に直指庵と名付けました。直指庵という名前は禅語「直指人心（じきしにんしん / 自身の内面を直視し、本当の自分を把握すること）」に由来しています。一時は伽藍を配する大寺院になりましたが、その後は衰退の一途を辿り、江戸末期には独照の墓堂を残すのみになりました。
これを再興したのが、幕末の尊皇攘夷運動家である近衛家の老女、津崎村岡の局です。土地の子女の訓育に心血を注ぎ、今に引き継がれています。
葦葺の本堂には拝観者が思いの丈を綴る「想い出草」ノートが置かれ、境内には「想い出草観音像」や仲良く寄り添う「愛逢地蔵様」が配置されていて、多くの女性の人気スポットになっています。

It is generally said that Ashikaga Yoshimitsu, praying for peace in the capital of Kyoto without wars, erected the phoenix at the Golden Pavilion. However, Yoshimitsu, who acquired immense wealth and power through Kangou trade (a common name for the trade that took place between Yoshimitsu Ashikaga, the third general of the Muromachi shogunate, and Emperor Yongle, the emperor of the Ming dynasty), was not satisfied with that alone. It is said that he harbored ambitions of usurping the imperial throne and was planning for it. The structure of the Golden Pavilion is considered to represent the hierarchy of authority, and there is a theory that the phoenix at the highest point symbolizes Yoshimitsu himself. The phoenix was installed with the meaning that he, Yoshimitsu, was more deserving of being the emperor than the emperor himself. While Yoshimitsu left significant achievements, comparable to later figures such as Oda Nobunaga, Toyotomi Hideyoshi, and Tokugawa Ieyasu, his ambition to seize the imperial throne and its realization were unique to him. Although Yoshimitsu appears in history textbooks, strangely, he is not often featured as the protagonist in TV dramas or movies. This is because Ashikaga Yoshimitsu plotted the greatest taboo in Japanese history—the usurpation of the imperial throne.

金閣寺の鳳凰は戦乱のない京の都の平和を祈って足利義満が掲げたと一般には言われています。しかし、勘合貿易で巨万の富と権力を手に入れた義満はそれだけでは満足せず、皇位簒奪の野望を持ち、計画していたと言われています。金閣の造りは権威の序列を表しているとされ、一番高いところにある鳳凰は足利義満本人を表しているという説もあります。天皇より自分こそが天子にふさわしいという意味を込めて設置したのが鳳凰なのです。足利義満はのちの織田信長、豊臣秀吉、徳川家康らと肩を並べるほどの大きな功績を残した人物ですが、皇位簒奪の野望を持ち、それを具現化したのは義満だけです。足利義満は歴史教科書には出てきますが、何故かテレビドラマや映画等の主人公として取り扱われることはありません。足利義満は日本史最大のタブーである皇位簒奪をたくらんだからです。

In childhood, the winter joy on the way to school was the ‘tondo.’ Back then, we simply called it ‘tondo,’ but as I grew older, I came to understand its meaning. ‘Tondo’ goes by various names in different regions, such as ‘tondo-yaki,’ ‘dondo-yaki,’ and ‘donto-yaki.’ It seems that ‘sagicho’ is the formal name. This is a ritual bonfire event where New Year decorations, old charms, and amulets are burned at shrines and temples. Even now, ‘tondo-yaki’ is a post-New Year tradition, but in my childhood, I thought it referred to roadside bonfires. In the midst of the ‘tondo,’ a local elderly man would put sweet potatoes, treating the gathered children to the delicious roasted potatoes. The taste of those roasted sweet potatoes is unforgettable. Enjoying oven-baked sweet potatoes, the memories suddenly resurface.

子供の頃、冬になると楽しみなのは、学校に行く途中にあるとんど。その頃は普通にとんどとよんでいましたが、大きくなってとんどの意味を知りました。とんどは地域ごとに、とんど焼き、どんど焼き、どんと焼きのように様々な名称がありますが、左義長（さぎちょう）がフォーマルな呼び名らしいです。しめ縄やお正月飾り、古いお守りやお札を神社やお寺でお焚き上げする火祭り行事が起こりです。今でもとんど焼きはお正月の後の行事ですが、子供の頃は、道端の焚き火の事だと思っていました。そのとんどの中に近所のお爺さんがさつま芋を入れ、とんどの周りに集まった子供達に振舞ってくれるのです。その焼き芋が美味しくて美味しくて。オーブンで焼いた焼き芋を頬張りながら、ふとそんなことを思い出しました。

When it comes to Arashiyama, the first thing that comes to mind is the Togetsukyo Bridge. Spanning the Katsura River, the 155-meter-long Togetsukyo Bridge has become the symbol of Arashiyama, attracting numerous tourists. Although I mentioned it spans the Katsura River, in reality, upstream it becomes the Oigawa River, and downstream it changes its name to the Katsura River, divided by the Togetsukyo Bridge. The name Togetsukyo, or “Moon Crossing Bridge,” is said to have originated from Emperor Kameyama’s expression of awe as he observed the moon moving across the bridge during the Kamakura period.
Arashiyama is renowned for its beauty in each season, listed among the ‘100 Famous Cherry Blossom Spots in Japan’ during spring and the ‘100 Famous Autumn Foliage Spots in Japan’ during fall. It showcases different faces with the changing seasons, presenting cherry blossoms, fresh greenery, autumn leaves, and snow. Across the Oigawa River, the area includes Mt. Ogura, Mt. Kameyama and their foothills on the east side, and the area of the Arashiyama Sanzan mountains of Mt. Matsuo, Mt. Arashiyama and Mt. Karasugatake on the west side. Together, this area is commonly called Arashiyama.

嵐山といえば、まずおもいうかぶのが渡月橋。桂川に架かる長さ155mの渡月橋は嵐山のシンボルとなっており、多くの観光客が往来します。桂川に架かるといいましたが、実はな渡月橋をはさんで上流が大堰川（おおいがわ）、下流から桂川と呼称が変わるのです。渡月橋の名の由来は、鎌倉時代に亀山上皇が橋の上を月が移動していく姿を眺めて感想を述べたことからと言われています。
嵐山は、桜では「日本さくら名所100選」に、紅葉では「日本紅葉の名所100選」に選ばれているほどで、桜や新緑、紅葉、雪など、四季の移ろいとともに異なる顔を見せてくれます。大堰川（おおいがわ）を挟んで、東側の小倉山・亀山、さらにはその麓を含んだ地域と、西側の松尾山・嵐山・烏ヶ岳の嵐山三山の地域とを合わせて、一般的にこの一帯を嵐山と呼んでいます。

The Ukraine invasion war, reignited by Putin’s paranoia, is now nothing but a war of attrition. Since early June this year, the Ukrainian military has launched a large-scale counteroffensive. In response, the Russian forces have deployed new troops and engaged in a massive operation in the Donetsk region, leading to intense battles. The Russian military not only failed to achieve its initial objectives but also suffered a considerable number of casualties, estimated to be at least 20,000, and some sources claim it could be as high as 50,000. Yet, persisting in the war despite these losses is a characteristic of paranoia fixated on specific delusions.
Have the Russians forgotten that famous song, ‘Tsuru’ (Crane)? Created in 1965 by Gamzatov, who was moved by the story of Senbazuru (a thousand origami cranes) by Setsuko Sasaki during the World Conference against A and H Bombs in Hiroshima, the song features exquisite translation by Berenice and a stirring composition by the Ukrainian composer Frankel. The song became immensely popular in Russia. Triggering events commemorating and memorializing the victims of past Soviet wars, crane statues were inevitably used, and lines from this song became commonplace. Translated into various languages, it became a global anthem. Even in Japan, the Royal Knights and Dark Ducks brought ‘Tsuru’ back from the Soviet Union, and it quickly became a hit.

プーチンのパラノイアで再発したウクライナ侵略戦争はもはや消耗戦以外の何物でもありません。ウクライナ軍は今年6月上旬から大規模な反転攻勢を開始しています。これに対してロシア軍は新たな部隊を派遣し、東部ドネツク州で大規模な作戦を展開するなど、激しい攻防が続いています。ロシア軍は当初の目的を達せないどころか、戦死者は少なく見積もっても２万人、一説には５万には下らないといわれています。それでもずるずると戦争を続けるのが、特定の妄想に執り付かれているパラノイアの特徴です。ロシア人たちはあの名歌「つる」を忘れたのでしょうか。1965年に広島の原水爆禁止世界大会に出席して、佐々木禎子の千羽鶴の話に感銘を受けたガムザートフが作詞し、ベレニェスが絶妙な翻訳をして、ウクライナ人のフレンケルが人の心を揺する作曲をしたこの歌は、一躍ロシアで大人気の曲になりました。この歌を契機に、ソ連の過去の戦争の犠牲者を悼む行事や記念碑には必ず鶴の像が使われ、この歌の一節が使われるようになりました。その後各国語に翻訳されて、世界的に歌われるようになりました。日本にもロイヤルナイツとダークダックスがこの「つる」をソ連から持ち帰り、瞬く間にヒットしました。

The autumn leaves in Kyoto, which were delayed compared to usual this year, reached a level of cold on the 18th similar to mid-December, finally approaching the ‘best viewing’ period. Last month, the number of foreign visitors to Japan exceeded 2.51 million, surpassing the same month in 2019 before the COVID-19 pandemic. Kyoto during the autumn foliage season is crowded everywhere, and the average hotel accommodation price in Kyoto has risen to over 73,000 yen for a room for two people. Compared to before the pandemic, it has increased 1.9 times. In addition to the inherently ‘high cost’ of Kyoto, the ‘labor shortage’ also undoubtedly affects accommodation prices. While the accommodation fees for staying in Kyoto may be perceived as high for Japanese tourists, for foreigners, especially with the current strength of the yen, the prices do not seem excessively high.
One tourist from Australia commented, ‘We don’t have autumn leaves in Australia, so I never get to see the leaves turning red or orange. It’s really nice. I mainly stay in three-star hotels in Japan, so it’s very comfortable, clean, has everything I need, and is reasonably priced.’ They expressed satisfaction.

今年は例年よりも遅れていた京都の紅葉が、18日は12月中旬並みの寒さとなり、ようやく“見頃”になりつつあります。先月、日本を訪れた外国人は251万人を超え、コロナ禍前の2019年の同じ月を上回ったそうです。紅葉シーズンの京都は至る所で大混雑していて、京都市のホテルの平均宿泊価格は1室2人で7万3000円以上。コロナ禍前と比べ、1.9倍に跳ね上がっているといいます。そもそも“物価高”であることに加え、“人手不足”も宿泊料金に影響していることは否めません。京都を訪れる日本人の観光客には高いと感じられる京都の宿の宿泊料金ですが、外国人にとっては、折からの円高もあって、決して高い料金ではないようです。
オーストラリアから来た観光客のひとりは、「オ―ストラリアには紅葉はないので、木の葉が赤やオレンジに変わるのを見ることはないです。とてもナイスです。日本では主に三つ星ホテルに泊まっているので、とても快適で、清潔で、必要なものはすべてそろっていて、お手頃な価格です」と満足げに語っています。