Sitting on the beach, listening only to the sound of the waves crashing, I find myself drifting into a light slumber. Then, I hear the faint sound of a boat engine in the distance. Though hazy, the sunlight shines brightly, illuminating the far-off sea. A small fishing boat bobs on the waves as if a spotlight were shining directly upon it. It’s hard to believe that the days were so hot just a short while ago. I can feel the coolness of autumn in the occasional sea breeze. At the same time, an inexplicable loneliness wells up inside me. What is this loneliness? Is it because this landscape, carved by the passage of time, reminds me of the fleeting nature of life, born and disappearing into this scene? Ah, a crab just scuttled by at my feet, waving its claws at me as it passed.
The red spider lilies in the garden, which had been buds until yesterday, finally bloomed beautifully this morning. It’s already October. Of course, this is the first time we’ve had such a late blooming. While the mornings and evenings have become somewhat cooler, the daytime temperatures still exceed 30°C, feeling like midsummer. This is the same across the country. According to the app ‘Weather News,’ a survey conducted among users revealed that one week ago, in 25 prefectures, more than 30% of respondents reported that the flowers were ‘blooming.’ However, in this week’s survey, that number rose to 43 prefectures. Over the past week, it seems that the red spider lilies have finally started blooming widely from western Japan to the Tohoku region. Looking at the percentages by prefecture, Kagoshima leads with 86%, followed by Miyazaki with 83%, and Kochi with 82%. While the Kyushu and Shikoku regions show high blooming rates, in the Kanto region, Chiba is at 43%, Saitama at 51%, and even Tokyo is only at 39%, indicating a rather delayed blooming. On TV news, shaved ice is still a big hit at various tourist spots that are crowded with many foreign visitors. One wonders when the real arrival of autumn will come.
According to the weather news on TV, while there are still places experiencing scorching days with temperatures over 35 degrees Celsius, I’ve received a letter that the October cherry blossoms have started blooming. Including the October cherry blossoms, all cherry blossoms that bloom in autumn to winter are collectively called winter cherry blossoms. The Taiwan cherry is one of them, with its blooming period from January to February. By January, the early-blooming Kawazu cherry blossoms will start to bloom, marking the beginning of next year’s cherry blossom season. The day after tomorrow is the middle of the equinoctial week, so I expected news about red spider lilies, but instead, I received news of winter cherry blossoms, which is quite surprising. As for the red spider lilies, not only are there no flowers, but even the buds cannot be seen anywhere in the country this year, and it’s predicted that blooming will be much later. This is an unprecedented anomaly that defies common sense. The phrase ‘heat and cold last until the equinox’ has long been said, but now it seems that this saying has become obsolete due to the abnormality of the seasons. Even now, the news is filled with reports, such as the Noto region, which was struck by a major earthquake at the beginning of the year, now facing torrential rains that occur once every few decades, causing rivers to overflow and massive floods. Despite only 30% of the earthquake recovery being completed, a ‘special heavy rain warning’ has been issued, leaving me at a loss for words of sympathy. This abnormality in seasonal cycles and extreme weather is not limited to Japan. It is happening across the world, including in the United States and Europe. The entire planet is in a state of emergency. Now is not the time to be repeating wars and conflicts. Humanity must realize quickly that if we don’t act soon, it will be too late.
Today is the ‘Chūshū no Meigetsu’ (Mid-Autumn Full Moon). It is a traditional Japanese event that has continued since the Heian period. ‘Chūshū no Meigetsu’ refers to the custom of moon-viewing on the night of the 15th day of the 8th month in the lunar calendar. In the lunar calendar, autumn is from July to September, and the 15th day of the 8th month, which falls in the middle, was called ‘Chūshū’ (Mid-Autumn). The moon that rises on the night of the 15th day of Chūshū is called the ‘Chūshū no Tsuki’ (Mid-Autumn Moon), and because the moon appears particularly beautiful around this time, it became known as the ‘Chūshū no Meigetsu’ (Mid-Autumn Full Moon). In the modern solar calendar, there is about a one-month discrepancy, so this year (2023), the day of ‘Chūshū no Meigetsu’ falls on September 29. Since ‘Chūshū no Meigetsu’ is based on the solar calendar, the date changes every year. For example, in 2022, it was on September 10, in 2023 on September 29, in 2025 on October 6, and in 2026 on September 25, showing that the date can differ by nearly a month depending on the year. When it comes to offerings for moon-viewing, ‘Tsukimi Dango’ (moon-viewing rice dumplings) and pampas grass are traditionally used. A table is set up in a place where the moon is easily visible, and 15 dumplings, representing the 15th night, are piled high on a large plate, with pampas grass arranged beside them as a stand-in for rice ears. The pampas grass in the photograph was coincidentally taken today, and its formal name is ‘Shiroganeyoshi’ (silver grass). In English, it is called ‘Pampas Grass,’ and it originates from the grasslands (pampas) of South America, including Brazil, Argentina, and Chile. Pampas grass was introduced to Japan during the Meiji era, and it is now commonly seen in parks and wetlands across the country.
The mornings and evenings have become slightly cooler, but during the day, the temperature still feels like it’s in the height of summer. The once-bustling beach is now deserted, and you can faintly hear the sound of fishing boats far off in the distance. Occasionally, a red dragonfly flies by, subtly reminding you that autumn is approaching. It’s a strange seasonal feeling—too early to call it late summer, but not quite early autumn either. In haiku, it’s customary to include seasonal words to signify the season, but even the seasonal almanacs are of little help. For instance, “late summer” is a seasonal term that, according to the almanac, refers to the period from Shōsho (around July 7) to Risshū (around August 7), but this time frame is still the peak of summer, making it an awkward term to begin with. Especially with this year’s weather, it leaves one wondering, “When exactly is late summer?” Next week, on the 19th, marks the start of the autumn equinox period. Ideally, we’d call it early autumn, but that too feels off given the current weather. Recently, the climate has shifted dramatically. I’m concerned about the environmental changes brought about by these climate fluctuations.
The term “Nihyakutōka” (the 210th day) was commonly heard in the past, but it’s rarely mentioned these days. “Nihyakutōka” is one of the traditional seasonal divisions and refers to the 210th day from the start of spring (around February 4th), which falls around September 1st each year. Around this day, various rituals such as Kazamatsuri (Wind Festivals) and Fūchinsai (Wind Calming Festivals) have been held at shrines across Japan to pray for protection from wind damage. Additionally, on September 1, 1923 (Taisho 12), the Great Kanto Earthquake occurred, and in 1960 (Showa 35), this date was designated as “Disaster Prevention Day.” Wind festivals meant to protect crops and calm the winds still remain in various parts of the country. Particularly famous is the wind festival held in Yatsuo Town, Toyama City, the “Owara Kaze no Bon” of Etchu Yatsuo. “Owara Kaze no Bon” is one of the most representative events of Toyama Prefecture, held annually from September 1st to 3rd in the Yatsuo district of Toyama City. In this festival, silent dancers wearing straw hats perform sophisticated dances along the streets of the hilly town, accompanied by the mournful melody of the Etchu Owara Bushi. The festival features graceful female dancers, vigorous male dancers, and the poignant music of the kokyū (a traditional Japanese string instrument), captivating visitors. During the three days of the Owara Kaze no Bon, from September 1st to 3rd, approximately 250,000 spectators visit Yatsuo.
It’s been so hot that it’s more appropriate to send a midsummer greeting card than a late summer one. I keep getting ‘Heatstroke Alert’ notifications from the Yahoo Disaster Alert app on my smartphone. For us elderly folks, staying indoors is the best option. This summer, I’ve been watching Japanese festivals and Bon dances extensively on YouTube. I never knew there were so many diverse festivals and Bon dances across Japan. At the same time, I was reminded of how much the times have changed, making it possible to see such things only through a medium like YouTube. Among all this, what intrigued me the most was a Bon dance called ‘Nanyadoyara,’ passed down in the northern Tohoku region of North Okushu. It’s a Bon dance handed down in the area from southern Aomori Prefecture to northern Iwate Prefecture, as well as in the former Nambu domain area of the Oga region in Akita Prefecture. It is named ‘Nanyadoyara’ after the lyrics of the accompanying song. It is said to be the root of Japanese Bon dances and the oldest Bon dance in Japan. Although the content of the song varies by region, it generally goes like this: ‘Nanyado Nasarete Nanyadoyara Nanyadore Nasarede Noo Nanyadore Nanyadoyarayo Nanya Nasarete Saae Nanyado Yarayo Nanya Nasarete Nanyadoyara Nanyado.’ The lyrics are completely incomprehensible, like some kind of incantation. Due to the enigmatic nature of these lyrics, various researchers throughout history have shown interest, proposing theories such as the ‘Sanskrit theory,’ ‘Dowa theory,’ or even ‘love song theory.’ Folklorist Kunio Yanagita suggested that the lyrics, which he learned from a village girl, mean ‘whatever you do, do as you like,’ and he interpreted it as a love song directed at men on special festival days. However, this explanation has not been entirely convincing, and the mysterious lyrics remain unexplained. However, in the Taisho era, a theologian from Ichinohe Town in Iwate Prefecture, Eiji Kawamorita, took up this Aomori folk song in his book ‘Jews in Japan’ and made a big splash by asserting that if the pronunciation of ‘Nanyadoyara’ is read as ‘Nagyadoyara’ in Hebrew, it suddenly turns into a song with meaningful words. Kawamorita explained how a Hebrew-rooted poem transformed and took root as a Japanese folk song, presenting several examples of Japanese folk song lyrics and accompanying words that can be read in Hebrew. To this day, there’s a village in Aomori Prefecture called Herai, which some believe might be a Hebrew village, meaning an ancient Israelite settlement. In the dialect of Herai Village, fathers are sometimes called ‘Ada’ and mothers ‘Aba,’ which some suggest could be transformations of ‘Adam’ and ‘Eve.’ There are numerous similarities between Japanese and Hebrew, such as ‘Akinafu’ (to buy), ‘Ari-Gad’ (lucky for me), ‘Essa’ (I’ll lift it up), ‘Kaku’ (to write), ‘Komaru’ (to be troubled), and ‘Nikumu’ (to avenge), and some words are almost identical. Today, the theory that the Japanese and Jews share a common ancestry often comes up in discussions about history, and through Bon dances, I’ve gained new insights, deepening my interest in Japan’s ancient history.
When it comes to Bon Odori, it is one of the Bon memorial services held across Japan during the Obon period from the 13th to the 15th. However, in the Kansai region, especially in Kyoto, Osaka, and Kobe, there is a custom called Jizō Bon, which is held on the 23rd and 24th of August. The main participants of Jizō Bon are children, and in Kyoto, the place of origin, each neighborhood sets up stalls in front of the Jizō statues to offer flowers and rice cakes, enjoy games and lotteries. In Osaka, where I lived, Bon Odori was held during this time, and as a child, I thought the dance held at this time was Bon Odori. In each neighborhood, Jizō statues were enshrined, and during Jizō Bon, many offerings were placed in front of the statues, and after the festival, the children in the neighborhood received a share of these offerings. Additionally, participating in Bon Odori was a joy because Ramune soda and juice were handed out, which was a treat for us. For children, Jizō Bon was the biggest and final event of summer vacation, and when it ended, the summer holiday was almost over. While there was still unfinished summer homework to worry about, by that time, the once loud cicadas had fallen silent, and the sky began to change from summer clouds to autumn clouds, leaving only the sadness of summer’s end. Jizō Bon originated in Kyoto and became widely practiced in the Kansai region, but it seems it did not take root much in Tokai or Kanto regions. This is due to the differences in the history of Jizō worship; in Kyoto, Jizō Bon became very popular during the Muromachi period, whereas in Tokyo, Jizō statues were only made in the Edo period, and in Edo, Inari worship was more prevalent than Jizō worship.
When one thinks of the Daimonji Okuribi (bonfire event), the first thing that comes to mind is the Daimonji of Kyoto’s Gozan no Okuribi. However, very few people, even in the Kansai region, are aware of the Daimonji Okuribi on Mount Takamado in Nara. Today is the day for Kyoto’s Gozan no Okuribi, but Nara’s Takamado Okuribi was held yesterday, on the 15th. Of course, Kyoto’s Daimonji Okuribi has a long history, with origins said to be either from the Heian or Edo periods, but the Okuribi on Mount Takamado in Nara began in Showa 35 (1960). It was started to console the souls of those who died in the war, but now it has become a ritual to console all the deceased and to pray for world peace. It is also cherished as a summer tradition in the ancient capital of Nara. Additionally, before lighting the “大” character on Mount Takamado, a Shinto memorial service is held in Kasuga Taisha’s Tobihino area by the priests of Kasuga Taisha, followed by a Buddhist memorial service by monks from temples within the prefecture. This event, which transcends religion and sects to pray for peace, is a very rare practice even on a national level. While Kyoto’s Gozan no Okuribi has become fully commercialized and attracts tens of thousands of visitors every year, including many foreign tourists, Nara and Kyoto are often compared and contrasted. However, compared to Kyoto’s splendor, Nara still carries a somewhat subdued image. It’s often said that while Kyoto is known for its extravagant clothing culture and Osaka for its food culture, Nara is humorously referred to as a place where people “sleep their lives away.” Though one might nod in agreement, on the other hand, the charm of Nara, which was also the beginning of the Yamato Province, is encapsulated in the classical epithet “Aoniyoshi（.a traditional Japanese poetic epithet known as a “makurakotoba” (pillow word)）,”
Japanese summers feel like they begin and end with festivals. From a foreigner’s perspective, they might wonder if Japanese people ever work during the summer, with so many festivals taking place. The core of these summer festivals is the Bon Odori. During the Obon season, lively festival music can be heard everywhere, and Bon Odori, held across the country, is one of the summer’s joys for ordinary people. Originally, Bon Odori was meant to entertain and honor the spirits of ancestors who returned during Obon and then send them off again. The origin of Bon Odori dates back to the Heian period when it was initiated by the monk Kūya. It was later popularized in the Kamakura period by the monk Ippen. It is said that the original form of Bon Odori was the ‘Nenbutsu Odori,’ a dance accompanied by the chanting of Buddhist prayers, as well as the beating of gongs and drums. Later, during the Nanbokuchō and Muromachi periods, a refined aesthetic sense called ‘fūryū’ became popular, characterized by ornate and elaborate designs. Under the influence of ‘fūryū,’ Bon Odori evolved into a dance accompanied by lively music with flutes and drums, and performers dressed in colorful costumes. Today, Bon Odori is held throughout Japan. Among them, the three most famous Bon Odori are the Nishimonai Bon Odori (in Ugo Town, Akita Prefecture), the Awa Odori (in Tokushima City, Tokushima Prefecture), and the Gujo Odori (in Hachiman Town, Gujo City, Gifu Prefecture). The Awa Odori, which begins today, is leading the way, marking the climax of this summer.
