鳳凰が 錦秋見下ろす 金閣寺 A phoenix gazes down  Overlooking brocade autumn  Of the Golden Pavilion

It is generally said that Ashikaga Yoshimitsu, praying for peace in the capital of Kyoto without wars, erected the phoenix at the Golden Pavilion. However, Yoshimitsu, who acquired immense wealth and power through Kangou trade (a common name for the trade that took place between Yoshimitsu Ashikaga, the third general of the Muromachi shogunate, and Emperor Yongle, the emperor of the Ming dynasty), was not satisfied with that alone. It is said that he harbored ambitions of usurping the imperial throne and was planning for it. The structure of the Golden Pavilion is considered to represent the hierarchy of authority, and there is a theory that the phoenix at the highest point symbolizes Yoshimitsu himself. The phoenix was installed with the meaning that he, Yoshimitsu, was more deserving of being the emperor than the emperor himself. While Yoshimitsu left significant achievements, comparable to later figures such as Oda Nobunaga, Toyotomi Hideyoshi, and Tokugawa Ieyasu, his ambition to seize the imperial throne and its realization were unique to him. Although Yoshimitsu appears in history textbooks, strangely, he is not often featured as the protagonist in TV dramas or movies. This is because Ashikaga Yoshimitsu plotted the greatest taboo in Japanese history—the usurpation of the imperial throne.

金閣寺の鳳凰は戦乱のない京の都の平和を祈って足利義満が掲げたと一般には言われています。しかし、勘合貿易で巨万の富と権力を手に入れた義満はそれだけでは満足せず、皇位簒奪の野望を持ち、計画していたと言われています。金閣の造りは権威の序列を表しているとされ、一番高いところにある鳳凰は足利義満本人を表しているという説もあります。天皇より自分こそが天子にふさわしいという意味を込めて設置したのが鳳凰なのです。足利義満はのちの織田信長、豊臣秀吉、徳川家康らと肩を並べるほどの大きな功績を残した人物ですが、皇位簒奪の野望を持ち、それを具現化したのは義満だけです。足利義満は歴史教科書には出てきますが、何故かテレビドラマや映画等の主人公として取り扱われることはありません。足利義満は日本史最大のタブーである皇位簒奪をたくらんだからです。

焼き芋も 今はオーブン 様変わり Baked sweet potatoes, Has completely changed, Now in the oven—

In childhood, the winter joy on the way to school was the ‘tondo.’ Back then, we simply called it ‘tondo,’ but as I grew older, I came to understand its meaning. ‘Tondo’ goes by various names in different regions, such as ‘tondo-yaki,’ ‘dondo-yaki,’ and ‘donto-yaki.’ It seems that ‘sagicho’ is the formal name. This is a ritual bonfire event where New Year decorations, old charms, and amulets are burned at shrines and temples. Even now, ‘tondo-yaki’ is a post-New Year tradition, but in my childhood, I thought it referred to roadside bonfires. In the midst of the ‘tondo,’ a local elderly man would put sweet potatoes, treating the gathered children to the delicious roasted potatoes. The taste of those roasted sweet potatoes is unforgettable. Enjoying oven-baked sweet potatoes, the memories suddenly resurface.

子供の頃、冬になると楽しみなのは、学校に行く途中にあるとんど。その頃は普通にとんどとよんでいましたが、大きくなってとんどの意味を知りました。とんどは地域ごとに、とんど焼き、どんど焼き、どんと焼きのように様々な名称がありますが、左義長(さぎちょう)がフォーマルな呼び名らしいです。しめ縄やお正月飾り、古いお守りやお札を神社やお寺でお焚き上げする火祭り行事が起こりです。今でもとんど焼きはお正月の後の行事ですが、子供の頃は、道端の焚き火の事だと思っていました。そのとんどの中に近所のお爺さんがさつま芋を入れ、とんどの周りに集まった子供達に振舞ってくれるのです。その焼き芋が美味しくて美味しくて。オーブンで焼いた焼き芋を頬張りながら、ふとそんなことを思い出しました。

紅葉する 嵐山を盛った 渡月橋 Arashiyama’s momiji, Are placed on the Togetsukyo Bridge, like rice on a plate.

 

When it comes to Arashiyama, the first thing that comes to mind is the Togetsukyo Bridge. Spanning the Katsura River, the 155-meter-long Togetsukyo Bridge has become the symbol of Arashiyama, attracting numerous tourists. Although I mentioned it spans the Katsura River, in reality, upstream it becomes the Oigawa River, and downstream it changes its name to the Katsura River, divided by the Togetsukyo Bridge. The name Togetsukyo, or “Moon Crossing Bridge,” is said to have originated from Emperor Kameyama’s expression of awe as he observed the moon moving across the bridge during the Kamakura period.
Arashiyama is renowned for its beauty in each season, listed among the ‘100 Famous Cherry Blossom Spots in Japan’ during spring and the ‘100 Famous Autumn Foliage Spots in Japan’ during fall. It showcases different faces with the changing seasons, presenting cherry blossoms, fresh greenery, autumn leaves, and snow. Across the Oigawa River, the area includes Mt. Ogura, Mt. Kameyama and their foothills on the east side, and the area of the Arashiyama Sanzan mountains of Mt. Matsuo, Mt. Arashiyama and Mt. Karasugatake on the west side. Together, this area is commonly called Arashiyama.

嵐山といえば、まずおもいうかぶのが渡月橋。桂川に架かる長さ155mの渡月橋は嵐山のシンボルとなっており、多くの観光客が往来します。桂川に架かるといいましたが、実はな渡月橋をはさんで上流が大堰川(おおいがわ)、下流から桂川と呼称が変わるのです。渡月橋の名の由来は、鎌倉時代に亀山上皇が橋の上を月が移動していく姿を眺めて感想を述べたことからと言われています。
嵐山は、桜では「日本さくら名所100選」に、紅葉では「日本紅葉の名所100選」に選ばれているほどで、桜や新緑、紅葉、雪など、四季の移ろいとともに異なる顔を見せてくれます。大堰川(おおいがわ)を挟んで、東側の小倉山・亀山、さらにはその麓を含んだ地域と、西側の松尾山・嵐山・烏ヶ岳の嵐山三山の地域とを合わせて、一般的にこの一帯を嵐山と呼んでいます。

飛ぶ鶴に 思いは至る ウクライナ To the flying crane, Thoughts reach out, To Ukraine.

The Ukraine invasion war, reignited by Putin’s paranoia, is now nothing but a war of attrition. Since early June this year, the Ukrainian military has launched a large-scale counteroffensive. In response, the Russian forces have deployed new troops and engaged in a massive operation in the Donetsk region, leading to intense battles. The Russian military not only failed to achieve its initial objectives but also suffered a considerable number of casualties, estimated to be at least 20,000, and some sources claim it could be as high as 50,000. Yet, persisting in the war despite these losses is a characteristic of paranoia fixated on specific delusions.
Have the Russians forgotten that famous song, ‘Tsuru’ (Crane)? Created in 1965 by Gamzatov, who was moved by the story of Senbazuru (a thousand origami cranes) by Setsuko Sasaki during the World Conference against A and H Bombs in Hiroshima, the song features exquisite translation by Berenice and a stirring composition by the Ukrainian composer Frankel. The song became immensely popular in Russia. Triggering events commemorating and memorializing the victims of past Soviet wars, crane statues were inevitably used, and lines from this song became commonplace. Translated into various languages, it became a global anthem. Even in Japan, the Royal Knights and Dark Ducks brought ‘Tsuru’ back from the Soviet Union, and it quickly became a hit.

プーチンのパラノイアで再発したウクライナ侵略戦争はもはや消耗戦以外の何物でもありません。ウクライナ軍は今年6月上旬から大規模な反転攻勢を開始しています。これに対してロシア軍は新たな部隊を派遣し、東部ドネツク州で大規模な作戦を展開するなど、激しい攻防が続いています。ロシア軍は当初の目的を達せないどころか、戦死者は少なく見積もっても2万人、一説には5万には下らないといわれています。それでもずるずると戦争を続けるのが、特定の妄想に執り付かれているパラノイアの特徴です。ロシア人たちはあの名歌「つる」を忘れたのでしょうか。1965年に広島の原水爆禁止世界大会に出席して、佐々木禎子の千羽鶴の話に感銘を受けたガムザートフが作詞し、ベレニェスが絶妙な翻訳をして、ウクライナ人のフレンケルが人の心を揺する作曲をしたこの歌は、一躍ロシアで大人気の曲になりました。この歌を契機に、ソ連の過去の戦争の犠牲者を悼む行事や記念碑には必ず鶴の像が使われ、この歌の一節が使われるようになりました。その後各国語に翻訳されて、世界的に歌われるようになりました。日本にもロイヤルナイツとダークダックスがこの「つる」をソ連から持ち帰り、瞬く間にヒットしました。

フォリナーも 目をまあるくの 紅葉かな Most foreigners, Gazing with widened eyes— Japanese autumn leaves

The autumn leaves in Kyoto, which were delayed compared to usual this year, reached a level of cold on the 18th similar to mid-December, finally approaching the ‘best viewing’ period. Last month, the number of foreign visitors to Japan exceeded 2.51 million, surpassing the same month in 2019 before the COVID-19 pandemic. Kyoto during the autumn foliage season is crowded everywhere, and the average hotel accommodation price in Kyoto has risen to over 73,000 yen for a room for two people. Compared to before the pandemic, it has increased 1.9 times. In addition to the inherently ‘high cost’ of Kyoto, the ‘labor shortage’ also undoubtedly affects accommodation prices. While the accommodation fees for staying in Kyoto may be perceived as high for Japanese tourists, for foreigners, especially with the current strength of the yen, the prices do not seem excessively high.
One tourist from Australia commented, ‘We don’t have autumn leaves in Australia, so I never get to see the leaves turning red or orange. It’s really nice. I mainly stay in three-star hotels in Japan, so it’s very comfortable, clean, has everything I need, and is reasonably priced.’ They expressed satisfaction.

今年は例年よりも遅れていた京都の紅葉が、18日は12月中旬並みの寒さとなり、ようやく“見頃”になりつつあります。先月、日本を訪れた外国人は251万人を超え、コロナ禍前の2019年の同じ月を上回ったそうです。紅葉シーズンの京都は至る所で大混雑していて、京都市のホテルの平均宿泊価格は1室2人で7万3000円以上。コロナ禍前と比べ、1.9倍に跳ね上がっているといいます。そもそも“物価高”であることに加え、“人手不足”も宿泊料金に影響していることは否めません。京都を訪れる日本人の観光客には高いと感じられる京都の宿の宿泊料金ですが、外国人にとっては、折からの円高もあって、決して高い料金ではないようです。
オーストラリアから来た観光客のひとりは、「オ―ストラリアには紅葉はないので、木の葉が赤やオレンジに変わるのを見ることはないです。とてもナイスです。日本では主に三つ星ホテルに泊まっているので、とても快適で、清潔で、必要なものはすべてそろっていて、お手頃な価格です」と満足げに語っています。

賓頭盧(びんずる)も 長谷の紅葉には 勝てまいに Even Binzuru, Cannot surpass the redness, Of the autumn leaves of Hase

To reach the main hall of Hasedera Temple, one must ascend a staircase known as the “Noborirou,” consisting of 399 steps, designated as an important cultural property. The Noborirou is divided into three sections: upper, middle, and lower, totaling 399 stone steps. Climbing the staircase, shedding worldly desires along the way, one reaches the top after surpassing the symbolic 400th step (associated with death), where they encounter the main deity, an eleven-faced Kannon statue enshrined in the main hall.
The main hall, constructed similarly to Kiyomizu-dera’s stage, features a hall of worship on the left and the main hall on the right, where the main deity is enshrined. At the edge of the hall of worship, there is an image of Binzuru, one of the sixteen arhats who served Buddha Shakyamuni. Binzuru, known for his exceptional discipleship and miraculous powers acquired through ascetic practices, is also famous for his love of alcohol. Legend has it that he was once caught drinking between meditation sessions by Buddha Shakyamuni, resulting in being tossed outside the temple. Due to such anecdotes, Binzuru is commonly enshrined outside temple halls across various temples.

長谷寺の本堂へは重要文化財の「登廊」という399段の階段を上がって行きます。登廊は上中下の三廊に分かれており、全部で399段もの石段があります。登廊の階段を煩悩を落としながら登り、最後の1段の400段目の四(死)を越えたとろこで、本堂にお祀りする本尊の十一面観音像と対面する事ができます。
本堂は清水の舞台と同じ舞台造りとなっており、左が礼堂で、その右側はご本尊が祀られている正堂です。礼堂の端っこには、お釈迦様に仕える十六羅漢の一人賓頭盧(びんづる)尊者像が祀られています。賓頭盧尊者は出家修行して身につけた神通力で多くの人々を救った大変優秀なお弟子さんです。その一方で無類のお酒好き。いつも赤ら顔で、修行の合間にお酒を飲んでいた所をお釈迦様に見つかりお堂の外に放り出されてしまったとか。このような事から賓頭盧さんはどのおてらでも堂外に祀られている訳です。

地に映えて 通るに通れぬ 落ち葉道 Due to fallen leaves,  The ground shines beautifully,  An impassable path

On the walking path early in the morning, fallen leaves that were blown by last night’s rain and wind are piled up. The colorful fallen leaves are so vibrant that they don’t even look like fallen leaves.
It’s impossible to walk on this path now. When you see that there are no footprints, I’m sure everyone feels the same way.
When the rain and morning dew disappear, and these fallen leaves are blown away by the wind, they will return to the original walking path. When I imagine that, my heart feels warm with the joy of knowing that everyone who walks through this path shared the same experience.

早朝の遊歩道には、昨晩の雨と風に散った落ち葉が折り重なっています。色とりどりの落ち葉は、落ち葉とは思えない精彩を放っています。これでは歩くに歩けません。誰も通った跡がないところを見れば、皆さん誰もが同じ思いを持ったに違いありません。雨と朝露が消えて、この落ち葉が風に吹かれて消えた時、本来の遊歩道に戻るのでしょう。そんなことを想像すると、この遊歩道を通る皆んなが同じ思いを共有できた嬉しさで胸が熱くなってきます。

新そばを 求めて殺到 笠荒神 In search of new soba, a rush of people— Kasakoujin shrine.

In the mountainous region bordering Sakurai City and Tenri City in Nara Prefecture, there is a soba restaurant called ‘Kasa Soba.’ In close proximity lies the Kasayama Aragami Shrine, one of Japan’s three major Aragami shrines, dedicated to the deity of the kiln, known as ‘Kasa no Aragami-san.’ Nestled in the depths of Hasedera, this area is considered the birthplace of Shinto, with a history dating back 3,000 years.
This area is located at an altitude of 400 to 500 meters, with large temperature differences between morning and evening, and is blessed with the perfect climate and climate for making soba, so soba production began as part of the village’s revitalization efforts.
The soba noodles made from 100% Kasa buckwheat flour grown locally have become very popular, and before you know it, it has become a well-known tourist spot in Nara. Particularly during this season, visitors flock from all over Kansai in search of new soba, leading to long queues and establishing it as a well-known destination.

奈良県の桜井市と天理市と境を接する中山間地域に「笠そば」と言うお蕎麦屋さんがあります。すぐ近くには日本三大荒神の一つで、カマドの神様として信仰があつい「笠の荒神さん」、笠山荒神社があります。長谷寺の奥に位置し、3000年とも呼ばれれ神道発祥の地とも言われる所です。
この地域は標高が400~500mに有り、朝夕の寒暖の差が激しく、そばづくりに最適な気候・風土に恵まれているという事で、村興しの一環として蕎麦作りが始まりました。
地元でとれた笠のそば粉100%のお蕎麦が人気を呼び、いつしか奈良でも知る人ぞ知る観光スポットになりました。特に今の時期、新そばを求めて関西一円からお客が押し寄せ、いつも行列ができるほどの人気です。

店先の リースが目に付く 年の暮れ  In front of the shop, A wreath catches the eye,  Year’s end approaches.

When it comes to Christmas, Christmas trees and Santa Claus are classic, but lately, what stands out conspicuously is the Christmas wreath. Walking through the city, whether it’s at the entrances of homes, cafes, restaurants, or shopping centers, Christmas wreaths are adorned in various places. Originally, a wreath referred to a decorative circular arrangement made of flowers or leaves, worn as a crown by ancient Romans during festivals and celebrations. This wreath underwent Christianization during the spread of Christianity in medieval Europe, evolving into the Christmas wreath we know today. Christmas wreaths typically take the form of a circle, symbolizing ‘eternal love,’ ‘bountiful harvest,’ and ‘protection against evil.’ The materials used to embody this symbolism include evergreen leaves and branches such as pine, holly, eucalyptus, representing the enduring nature of evergreens even in winter, symbolizing new life and hope. Additionally, wreaths are adorned with ribbons, bells, sparkling ornaments, and Christmas balls.

クリスマスと言えばクリスマスツリーやサンタクロースが定番ですが、最近とみに目に付くのがクリスマスリースです。街を歩いていても、家々の玄関やカフェ、レストランにショッピングセンター、さまざまな場所にクリスマスリースが飾られています。リースとは、元々、花や葉などで作られた装飾用の輪のことで、古代ローマ人がお祭りやお祝い事で冠として身に着けていました。そのリースが、中世ヨーロッパでキリスト教が広まる中でキリスト教化され、現代に受け継がれたのがクリスマスリースです。クリスマスリースは通常、円環の形状をしていて、「永遠の愛」「豊作祈願」「魔除け」を象徴したものだと言われています。それを具現化した素材には、松やヒイラギ、ユーカリ、ホーリーなどの常緑樹の葉や枝が使われます。これは冬でも色あせない常緑樹が、新しい生命や希望を象徴しているからです。また、リボンやベル、キラキラした装飾品、クリスマスボールなどがリースに飾られます。

菊の香を 添えて寿ぐ 七五三 With the fragrance of chrysanthemums, Celebrating the seven-five-three festival. 

Today is Shichi-Go-San. It’s a traditional Japanese celebration for children who are 7, 5, and 3 years old, marking their growth. Families visit shrines and temples for the ‘Shichi-Go-San-mairi,’ offering prayers, gratitude, and reports. It is said to have originated with prayers for the health of the eldest son of the fifth shogun of the Edo shogunate, Tsunayoshi. At nearby shrines, many children dressed in formal attire, along with their parents, were making visits. It is a truly delightful and heartwarming scene.
However, these fortunate children stand in contrast to the reality that in Japan, approximately 1 in 9 children are said to be living in poverty. There is an international indicator called the ‘poverty line’ that represents poverty, and in Japan, the poverty line in 2018 was an income of 1.27 million yen. This means that approximately 1 in 9 children are in environments characterized by such conditions. At one point, there was a period when this ratio was 1 in 6, but due in part to increased societal awareness, we have fortunately moved away from the worst conditions.
While Japan is experiencing a declining birthrate, with the number of births in 2022 being 770,000, a quarter of the peak at 2.5 million births, the disparity in child poverty is widening. The economic losses resulting from child poverty are estimated to be around 43 trillion yen. When combined with the issue of declining birthrates, this poses a truly serious problem for Japan’s future.

今日は七五三。7歳、5歳、3歳の子供の成長を祝う日本の年中行事です。神社や寺に「七五三詣」をして、報告、感謝、祈願を行います。江戸幕府の第5代将軍綱吉の長男の健康を祈願して始まったと言われています。近くの神社には、晴れ着をきた子供達とその両親が沢山お参りしていました。誠に喜ばしく微笑ましい光景です。
こうした子どもたちは恵まれた子たちで、今、日本では全体の9人に1人もの子どもたちが貧困状態にあると言われています。貧困状態を表す国際指標として「貧困線」と言う指標がありますが、2018年の日本の貧困線は所得が127万円で、そうした環境に置かれた子供が9人に1人と言うことです。一時は6人に1人と言う時期もありましたが、世間の関心の高まりもあって、さすがに最悪の状態からは脱しました。
2022年の出生数が77万人と、ピーク時250万人の4分の1と言う少子化が進む中、子ども達の貧困格差が広がっています。子どもの貧困が起こることで生じる経済損失は43兆円ともいわれ、少子化問題と重ね合わせると、日本の将来にとって実に由々しき問題です。