North of Kyoto, there is Kitano Tenmangu Shrine, where Sugawara no Michizane, known as the god of learning, is enshrined. In remembrance of Michizane, who was said to have loved plum blossoms, the annual ‘Ume Matsuri’ (Plum Blossom Festival) is held on his death anniversary, February 25th. Within the precincts, outdoor tea ceremony seats are arranged, and visitors savor tea prepared by maiko (apprentice geisha). Sugawara no Michizane, known from high school history textbooks for the cancellation of the envoy to Tang China in 894, was born into a scholarly family in the Heian period. Gifted in waka and kanshi poetry from a young age, he excelled in both literary and political fields. However, his talents and rise to prominence incurred the displeasure of the powerful Fujiwara clan, leading to his unjust demotion to Dazaifu in Kyushu, where he met an unfortunate end. After Michizane’s unfortunate death, a series of disasters occurred, and people, fearing it was his curse, enshrined him as Tenjin (the god of heaven) at the present-day Kitano Tenmangu Shrine to appease these misfortunes. In the current exam season, Kitano Tenmangu Shrine serves as a power spot for many students seeking success in their studies. It’s interesting to note that people in Kyoto refer to him as ‘Tenjin-sama,’ while in Osaka, he is known as ‘Tenjin-san’.

学問の神様として知られる菅原道真を祭る京都の北野天満宮。梅の花を愛したとされる道真公をしのんで、命日にあたる２月２５日に毎年恒例の「梅花祭」が開かれました。境内では野点(のだて)の席が設けられ、参拝者らが舞妓さんが点てたお茶を味わっていました。菅原道真と言えば、高校の歴史教科書で894年の遣唐使派遣中止で知られています。平安時代の学者の家系に生まれた菅原道真は、幼少期から和歌や漢歌の才能に秀で、政治家としても出世の道を歩みました。しかし、その才能と出世が、当時の本流であった藤原一族の反感を買い、身に覚えのない罪によって九州の太宰府に左遷させられ、その地で不遇の死を遂げました。菅原道真が不遇の死を遂げた後に、災害が相次いで起こったため、人々はそれが道真の祟りだと恐れ、それらを鎮めるために天神として祀ったのが今の天満宮です。受験シーズンの今、北野天満宮は多くの受験生が訪れる学問成就のパワースポットでもあります。京都の人は天神さま、大阪の人は天神さんと呼びますがこの違いも面白いですね。