On the way back from visiting Hanase-no-Sato, the inner part of Kyoto, and going over the steep Hanase Pass, there is a turning point for Momoi’s farewell.  From there, I go down the Kurama Highway toward Kyoto, I find the village for the first time, and there is Kurama Onsen.  When going from Kyoto, take a car or Eizan train and go up the Kurama Highway from Kurama Station.  The area around here is full of autumn leaves.  The autumn colors of the famous temple in central Kyoto are good, but the size and color of the autumn colors here are just amazing.  When I soak in the Kurama hot spring “Houroku-no-Yu (Mountain foot hot water) there, all I can hear is the sound of the autumn leaves rubbing and the sound of the hot spring that springs up. There is only one foreigner and no one else.

京都の奥座敷、花背の里を訪れての帰り、険しい花背峠を超えると百井の別れの分岐点があります。そこから鞍馬街道をひたすら京都に向かって下って行くと初めて集落があり、そこに鞍馬温泉があります。京都からなら、車か叡山電車の鞍馬駅から鞍馬街道を奥深く入った所です。もうこの辺りは紅葉一色。京都中心部の名刹の紅葉もいいですが、規模といい、紅葉の色合いといい、ただ絶句するだけです。そこにある鞍馬温泉『峰麓湯』に浸かると、聞こえてくるのは、紅葉の葉が擦れの音と、湧き出す温泉の音だけ。外人さんが一人だけ入っていました。

Hatsuse-dera Temple is another name, and Hase-dera Temple is the official name.  Hase-dera Temple is located on the hillside of Mt. Hatsuse overlooking the Hase Highway that connects Yamato and Ise. And it is supposed to have built in the Nara period in the first half of the 8th century, but The detailed timing and circumstances of the construction are unknown.  Hase-dera Temple was named by Emperor Shomu, who has a strong faith in Buddhism. Before that, it was closely related to Ise-Jingu Shrine, and it seems that it was a sacred place for mountain worship based on Shintoism worship. In particular, Hase-dera has a deep relationship with women, and the eleven-faced Kanzeon Bosatsu, the principal image of the Buddhism, has been the object of worship of women since the Heian period.  Visiting Hase-dera was a wish of a woman for a lifetime too. It also appears in many female classical literature such as “The Pillow Book,” “The Tale of Genji,” and “Sarashina Nikki.”  It is still a very popular temple for women as a “flower temple”.

初瀬寺は別称で長谷寺が正式名です。大和と伊勢を結ぶ初瀬街道を見下ろす初瀬山の中腹に建つ長谷寺は、創建が奈良時代、8世紀前半と推定されますが、創建の詳しい時期や事情は不明です。長谷寺と命名したのは仏教の信仰篤い聖武天皇で、それ以前は伊勢神宮と密接な関係があり、神道の自然崇拝に基づく山岳信仰の聖地であったと思われます。特に女性との関わりは深く、本尊の十一面観世音菩薩は平安時代から女性の信仰の的で、長谷寺詣では女性の一生一代の願いでした。『枕草子』『源氏物語』『更級日記』など、多くの女流古典文学にも登場します。今でも「お花の寺」として、女性にはとても人気のお寺です。

Some places are in full bloom with autumn leaves, while others are a little more patient.  However, entering the mountainous area, it will be in full bloom.  Fallen leaves cover the ground that was lush with the green undergrowth, and are preparing for winter.  It is a characteristic of this period that there are many fallen leaves, red and yellow, and many green leaves.  Unlike the dry winter fallen leaves, it is also characterized by its wetness.  The color variation and the freshness are as beautiful as the autumn leaves on the tree.  The air is chilly, but it’s pleasantly cold.  Recently, the number of people who are interested in fallen leaves is increasing in foreign countries, and the number of posts on Instagram and Pinterest is also increasing.

紅葉満開の所もあれば、もう少し我慢と言う所もあります。山間部に入れば何処とも満開。下草で青々していた大地にも落ち葉が覆い尽くし、冬準備です。落ち葉も赤や黄も有れば、緑の葉が多いのが、この時期の特徴です。乾燥した冬の落ち葉と違い、瑞々しいのも特徴です。色のバリエーションと瑞々しさは、樹上の紅葉にも負けない美しさです。空気は冷えびえしていますが、心地良い冷たさです。最近は、外国にも落ち葉に関心を持つ人達が増えてきて、インスタグラムやピンタレストにも投稿が増えてきています。

Fallen leaves of Ichoh (ginkgo) are piled up on the promenade that has not dawned yet, illuminating the road brightly. A person who go far ahead are also illuminated by the light of the Ichoh.  In the sky where the night begins to open, the morning first crow is flying somewhere. Autumn is getting deeper and deeper.  I’m still worried about the new corona.  The number of infected people continues to break records in all prefectures.  What will happen to Christmas and New Year that everyone was looking forward to?  Looking at the world, it is far beyond Japan.  The number of infected people and the number of deaths are two or three digits higher than in Japan.  It’s a pandemic that remains in history.  I pray that the preventive vaccine will be completed as soon as possible and that the world will fly toward the 21st century.

まだ開けやらぬ散歩道には銀杏の落ち葉が降り積もり、道を明るく照らしています。ずっと先行く人も銀杏の明かりに照らし出されています。白み始めた空には烏の一番鳥がどこに行くのか急いでいます。秋も益々深まってきました。心配なのはやはり新型コロナです。どの府県も感染者数が記録を更新し続けています。楽しみにしていたクリスマス、そしてお正月、いったいどうなるのでしょう。世界に目を向けると、もう日本どころではありません。感染者数も死亡者数も日本の二桁も三桁も上です。まさに歴史にも残るパンデミックです。一日も早く予防ワクチンが完成して、これからの２１世紀に向けて羽ばたける様に祈ります。

Joruri-ji Temple, Gansenji Temple, many stone Buddha statues, and stone towers line up on the border between Kyoto and Nara, and now it is a tourist destination visited by many people.  When I first visited this place about 50 years ago, I had the impression that it was a really lonely place, there were no shops, and there were a lot of crows.  It is a small temple built at the end of the Heian period. In the deep green precincts, a Jodo style garden centered on the “Takara-ike (a treasure pond)” and a main hall and a three-storied pagoda at the end of the Heian period remain, which conveys the atmosphere of the Heian Dynasty temple.  At the time of the vernal equinox and the autumnal equinox, the sun rises from the three-storied pagoda in the east, and the temples are arranged so as to sink into the main hall in the west over around the “Takara-ike”, and so it is reminiscent of the enthusiasm of the Pure Land Buddhism at that time.

京都と奈良の県境、当尾の里には浄瑠璃寺をはじめ、岩船寺や多くの石仏、石塔が立ち並び、今では多くの人達が訪れる観光地になっています。５０年ほど前に初めてこの地を訪れた時は、本当に寂しい所で、店らしい店もなく、やたら烏の多い所だと言う印象しか残っていません。平安時代末期に創建された小ぢんまりしたお寺で、緑深い境内には、「宝池」を中心とした浄土式庭園と平安末期の本堂および三重塔が残り、平安朝寺院の雰囲気を今に伝えています。春秋分の時は、東の三重塔から日が上り、宝池を巡って、西の本堂に沈むように伽藍配置されていて、当時の浄土信仰の篤さを偲ばせます。

Kinkakuji Temple in the spring when Kakitsubata (Japanese iris) blooms and Kinkakuji Temple now in autumn colors.  These looks are the ultimate in beauty. When the hustle and bustle of the day subsides and the true silence comes, one wants to monopolize the infinitely beautiful things that stand in the silence of the dark night. However, at the same time, he notices the ugliness of the mind and body inherent  in himself, and is jealous of its beauty. As a result, the devilishness of a person who wanted to drown out the self-contradiction in the passion of fire arose and the fire was set up to the Kinkakuji Temple. It is an event in 1950.  Yukio Mishima’s “Kinkakuji” and Tsutomu Minakami’s “Kinkakuji Enjou” took up this case from various angles.         

杜若（カキツバタ）咲く春の金閣寺、そして今、紅葉に染まる金閣寺。甲乙つけがたいこの美しさは美の極致です。昼間の喧騒がおさまり、本当の静寂が訪れたとき、闇夜の静寂にたたずむ無限に美しきものを独占したいという気持ちと、おのが身と心の醜さに引き比べて嫉妬し、炎という情念の中にかき消したいという人の魔性を引き出した結果が金閣寺炎上です。1950年、昭和25年の出来事です。三島由紀夫の『金閣寺』や水上勉の『金閣寺炎上』には、いろんな角度からこの事件が取り上げられています。

Autumn leaves in Japan gradually move south, starting with Daisetsuzan in Hokkaido, which begins in mid-September.  The transition of the best time to see the autumn leaves is called the “autumn leaves front” as opposed to the “cherry blossom front” in spring.  There are three types of autumn leaves: red autumn leaves, yellow autumn leaves, and brown autumn leaves, but they are collectively called autumn leaves. Many wild grasses also turn red and are called “grass autumn leaves”. All are defense systems to protect the declining leaves.  The autumn colors of Japan are the most beautiful in the world, and many tourists come from abroad during this period. But due to the influence of the new corona, we can hardly expect it this year.  Ironically, this year’s autumn leaves are going to be more beautiful than usual.

日本の紅葉は、９月半ばから始まる北海道の大雪山を皮切りに、徐々に南下します。紅葉の見頃の移り変わりを、春の「桜前線」に対して「紅葉前線」と呼んでいます。紅葉には、赤紅葉、黄紅葉、褐紅葉の３種類がありますが、ひとまとめに単に紅葉と言っています。野草も多くが色づき、「草紅葉」と呼んでいます。どれも、衰えてきた葉を守る為の防御システムです。日本の紅葉は世界でも最も美しく、外国からもこの時期多くの観光客が押し寄せますが、今年は新型コロナの影響で、ほとんど期待できせん。皮肉なことに、今年の紅葉は例年になく美しくなりそうです。

The famous Taima Temple, which is known for Taima Mandara and the legend of Chujo Princess, is also lonely this year. Especially at twilight in autumn.  Only the high-pitched shrike of the shrike is a tree spirit in the quiet precincts.  The shrike has the habit of sticking the caught prey into a tree branch or pinching it between the branches of a tree, and it is called “Hayanie”, but especially during the autumn breeding season.  Males make a lot of this early sale.  This is because males who make a lot of early payments and scream with a good voice can attract females.  Taima-dera, which has calmed down deep in autumn, provides a great rendezvous place for the shrike.

当麻曼荼羅と中将姫伝説の寺として知られる名刹當麻寺も今年は寂しい限りです。秋の黄昏時は尚更です。静まり返った境内に百舌鳥の高鳴きだけが木霊します。百舌鳥は捕らえた獲物を木の枝等に突き刺したり、木の枝股に挟む習性を持っていて、「百舌鳥の早贄（はやにえ）」と言いますが、特に秋の繁殖期には、雄はこの早贄を沢山作ります。早贄を沢山作っていい声で高鳴く雄ほど雌を惹きつけることができるからです。秋深く静まり返った當麻寺は百舌鳥達に格好のランデブーの場を提供している訳です。

Lately, the nightfall has become much earlier, and it begins to dim after four o’clock.  At that time, thanks to the autumn leaves that reflect the afterglow, the nightfall road becomes brighter.  Looking up, the red and yellow colored leaves are dazzling.  The beauty of these autumn leaves is taken for granted by us Japanese, but in fact it is by far the most beautiful in the world.  The reason is that Japan has about twice the world average in both types and proportions of broad-leaved forests.  In addition, the exquisite temperature changes of the four seasons and the humid climate have a great influence.  As evidence, even the same maple has a completely different color depending on the area and location.  Japan is a beautiful country in every sense, both nature and humans.

最近は日暮れも随分早くなって、四時を過ぎると薄暗くなり始めます。そんな時、残照を照り返す紅葉のお陰で、心なしか日暮れ道が明るくなります。見上げると、赤や黄に色づいた紅葉は眩しいほどです。この紅葉の美しさは、私達日本人は当たり前に思っていますが、実は世界でも飛び抜けて美しいのです。その訳は、まず、日本は広葉樹林の種類も比率も共に世界平均の２倍ほどあることです。さらに、四季の絶妙な気温変化と湿潤な気候が大きく影響しています。それが証拠に、同じカエデでも、地域や場所によって全然色が違います。自然も人間も、あらゆる意味で、やはり麗しの国、日本なんですね。

Chrysanthemum flower exhibitions are being held in various places.  In Hirakata City, Osaka, the “Hirakata Dai-Kiku Doll” at Hirakata Park, which had been held every year, had been popular with many people as an autumn tradition, but it is regrettable that 2005 was the last regular event. Now, the citizen’s “Kiku-flowr exhibition” is now being held.  A variety of chrysanthemums grown by enthusiasts are on display.  The “three tailoring” that perfectly tailored “Ten (sky), Chi (ground) and Jin (people) is a masterpiece.  The English name for Kiku is Chrysanthemum, which is a combination of the Greek words “chryso-” “golden” and “-anthemon” “flower”.  Speaking of “The land of the chrysanthemum”, it means Japan, and in the West, it seems to be associated with chrysanthemum → golden color → Japan.  By the way, “The throne of the chrysanthemum” means the emperor of Japan.  The spelling “chrysanthemum” is really long, and “mum” usually stands for chrysanthemum.  In the UK, “mum” has the meaning of “mother” and also means “shut up”, for example, “Keep mum about it.” means that you should keep it a secret, and there is also an idiom “Mum the word (Don’t tell others).”

菊花展が各地で開催されています。大阪・枚方市では、毎年開催されていた「ひらかたパーク」の「ひらかた大菊人形」は、秋の風物詩として多くの人々に親しまれてきましたが、惜しまれつつも2005年を最後に定期開催を終え、今は市民の菊花展が開催されています。愛好家が手塩にかけた育てた様々な菊が展示されています。天地人を見事に仕立てた「三本仕立て」は圧巻です。菊の英語名はChrysanthemumですが、これはギリシア語の “chryso-“「黄金の」と “‐anthemon”「花」が合成された言葉です。”The land of the   chrysanthemum”と言えば日本のことで、西洋では、菊→黄金色→日本と連想されているようです。ちなみに”The throne of the chrysanthemum”は日本の天皇を意味します。”chrysanthemum”という綴りはさすがに長く、普通には”mum”で菊を表します。”mum”はイギリスではお母さんと意味もあり、また、「黙っている」という意味もあって、Keep mum about it. （そのことは、黙って）と言ったり、Mum the word. （他言無用だよ。）という慣用句もあります。