From ancient times to the medieval period, faith in the Kumano Sanzan of Hongu, Shingu, and Nachi grew, attracting pilgrims ranging from the retired emperor and empress to common people. Many people are said to have continuously visited Kumano, to the extent that it is metaphorically described as the “ant’s pilgrimage to Kumano.” Now registered as a World Heritage site, the Kumano Kodo pilgrimage trail offers three routes: Nakahechi, Ohechi, and Kohechi. Among them, Nakahechi is considered the route most traveled by pilgrims. The Kumano Kodo, traversing the deep mountains of the Kii Peninsula, presents a series of challenging ascents and descents.
Amidst such mountainous journeys, solace was found in the hot springs, an ageless source of rejuvenation. Along the Nakahechi route, particularly near Kumano Hongu Taisha, you’ll find Yunomine Onsen, Watarase Onsen, and Kawayu Onsen. The featured hot spring in the photo is the Senninburo (Hermit Bath) of Kawayu Onsen. The entire river is heated by the hot spring, with the waters of the Kumanogawa River’s tributary, Ootou River, constantly mixing with the source spring, which exceeds 70 degrees Celsius. Here, you can fully enjoy your personalized open-air bath. Taking a dip in these hot springs during the pilgrimage to Kumano surely added a unique and exceptional dimension to the journey.
As a side note, Emperor Meiji was the first emperor or retired emperor to visit Ise Grand Shrine. However, although no emperor has ever visited Kumano Taisha, there have been many retired emperors and popes, including retired Emperor Goshirakawa, who has visited Kumano Taisha 33 times. It’s a historical mystery.

古代から中世にかけ、本宮・新宮・那智の熊野三山の信仰が高まり、上皇・女院から庶民にいたるまで、多くの人々が熊野を参詣しました。「蟻の熊野詣」と例えられるほど、多くの人々が切れ目なく熊野に参詣したと伝えられています。今では世界遺産に登録されている「熊野参詣道」には、「中辺路」、「大辺路」、「小辺路」の３ルートありますが、最も多くの参詣者が歩いたとされるねが「中辺路」です。山深い紀伊山地を辿る熊野古道は難行苦行の連続です。
そんな山行の中で癒されたのが、今も昔も変わらない温泉です。特に中辺路には「湯の峰温泉」、「渡瀬温泉」そして「川湯温泉」が熊野本宮大社を目前にした所にあります。写真の温泉は川湯温泉の仙人風呂です。川全体が温泉で、川底から絶えず湧き出す70度以上の源泉に、熊野川の支流大塔川が混ざり合い、自分だけのオリジナル露天風呂を満喫できます。熊野詣での行き帰りに浸る温泉はまた格別なものがあったに違いありません。
余談になりますが、歴代の天皇・上皇で伊勢神宮を参拝したのは明治天皇が初めてです。ところが、熊野大社を参拝した天皇はいませんが、上皇や法王は沢山あり、後白河上皇などは33回も熊野大社を参詣しています。歴史の謎ですね。